Dear all,
Once again apologies for the lack of contact. We have been busy exploring the Marquesas and enjoying dry land. After our trek across the South Pacific from Santa Cruz in the Galapagos Islands to Hiva-Oa in the Marquesas.
Hiva-Oa
We arrived early in the morning shortly after day break. We were greeted by a fantastic rainbow as we encountered our first rain shower in the Marquesas, it rains a fair amount here – but to counter that we are looking at some stunning mountain scenery.
In the bay Taahuku were many of the World Arc vessels plus many other independent crusiers, so anchoring was quite tight and a kedge essential. The walk to the town of Atuona was further than you’d like after three weeks at sea, but after a chat with a local we ended up getting a lift into town. Unfortunately it was a Saturday and the French Polynesians seem to cherish their weekends. The town was quaint but not poor. We settled with getting some local currency a few food bits and a walk to the beach before wondering home via a pub stop!! That night we were invited over by Trevor and Jo on Malarkey for some evening drinks. We had been keeping in touch with Malarkey on the SSB during the crossing. We spent pleasant few days in Hiva-Oa repairing the generator, clearing customs etc.
Tahuata – Hanamoenoe
After leaving bay Taahuku we embarked on another long crossing of 10 miles to a small little bay with clear water and a steep shelfing beach at the head of the bay. There was a small tin hut in the hedge that sometimes someone lives in but not a permanent residence. After a lovely swim Laura and Stu ventured ashore anchoiring the dinghy off and swimming in through the waves.
Fatu-Hiva - Hanavave
After a night in Hanamoenoe We left early and headed to Fatu-Hiva where we would meet Seazen and Sea Falke. Two other boats who had done the South Pacific at the same time. Fatu-Hiva is actually the closest Island to the Galapagos Islands but you cannot clear customs here. Some boats get away with it, others get told to leave. The journey to Fatu-Hiva wasn’t nice, strong head winds and plenty of rain, but it was thoroughly worth the effort, the view is truly amazing. The best word to describe it is Dramatic. Tall volcanic mountains, lush green fauna and friendly people.
We took a walk inland to a waterfall with Trevor and Jo from Malarkey and John and Monique from Victory. The description of the walk says beware of the dogs that may/will attack. Thankfully the dogs weren’t hungry when we passed by. The waterfall must have been 100m tall and the plunge pool was a refreshing swim after the long walk.
On the way back from the waterfall we were all caught out in a torrential downpoor. A local girl showed us to her house where we could shelter. The family manufactured bowls, boxes, baskets from locally sourced wood, either rosewood or ebony. The machine shop was small but great to see the tools that he used to manufacture these amazing products.
That evening we ate at “Simone’s” house. Literally in the lean to extension of his house which hadn’t been finished, whilst his family watched TV in the next room!! The food was fantastic, Marinated bananas, breadfruit, boar ribs, chicken in coconut, papaya, raw tuna, susihini, bread and rice followed by banana and cream dessert. This was followed by a night-cap on Seazen!!
From Fatu-Hiva Stu and Laura jumped on Seazen for the day, Seazen is a 43ft cruising catamaran crewed by Glen and Andrea and their two children Jasmin and Josh. we had a great sail down to Hanamoenoe and it took a while to catch Ocean Lady, but as we passed we got some excellent photos and video footage.
The following morning Stu and Laura were swimming in the morning when a six foot black tipped reef shark swam by, shortly afterwards a large manta ray passed by, awesome to see in their own environment.
Ua-Pou (pronounced Wahpoo)
The Island of Ua-Pou was an overnight sail to ensure a daylight arrival to the small harbour. Ua-Pou also has a dramatic skyline, with large mountains reaching up to the sky. The village is small and friendly and has a great pizza restaurant that does superb steaks – so good that we visited the following night as well!!
Nuku Hiva
A short (30nm) sail across from Ua-Pou and We are now in Taiohae bay, a lovely little anchorage. The town seems quite quiet and docile, but this could be because of the Easter Holidays where shops are not allowed to trade on a religious holiday. We have been able to fuel up with duty free diesel. An interesting fuel pontoon that you moor stern two after dropping you anchor out ahead, there was a moderate swell running and need a dinghy to get from the boat around to a ten foot tall vertical ladder to go and pay!! We’ve also managed to source cooking gas and vegetables!
We will hopefully spend a few more days here before moving onto the Tuamotus. Where we should arrive in four/five days.
Hope everybody is well,
Happy birthday to Kate Saunders for the 6th, Mama Steph and Andy Wright for the 8th!!
Lots of Love,
Ocean Lady
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